1. Natural-Colored Cream Eyeshadow as a base. (Water-proof Eye Paint by MAC in Untitled) all over eyelid from lashline to brow. From inner corner of the eye (almost touching the bridge of nose) to to the outer most part of the eye, extending towards the temple. You can cover the cream with a matching powder eyeshadow to set, I used Brule by MAC, a matte ivory color.
2. White Eyeliner around rim of the eye, upper and lower lashline. (I used Fascinating Kohl Pencil from MAC) Bring liner to the bridge of the nose to form a point, and exaggerate an extended line out to the temple. Make lines thin and clean. At the end of the makeover, I applied Shu Uemura Cream Pearl Pigment over the top of the white eyeliner to really make it shiny and pop! You can use a powder pigment as well... just make it really intense!
3.Work Metallic Brown Cream Eyeshadow around the white. I like to think of it as “hugging” the white eyeliner. I used my favorite go-to color, Rich Ground Fluidline by M.A.C. If you don’t have this in your kit... I highly recommend you make that happen! It’s brilliant and only $15 retail. Basically where the white ends, Rich Ground begins. Then continue to apply Rich Ground Fludiline all over the lid and blending it into the crease. Because it’s a cream, you get a clean line (when working around the white) and you get a great color payoff in general. Rich Ground also extends out to the temple.
4. Blend an orange-tinted brown powder eyeshadow into the crease over Rich Ground and blend up and out. Please use warm colors; browns with an orange undertone. I used a lot of Soft Brown Matte by MAC, (one of my all time fave colors!) the colors Saddle, Espresso and a hint of Orange to brighten it all up. (all by MAC) Blend the same eyeshadow combination into the bottom lashline, from the white eyeliner on down.
5. Next apply Waterproof Black cream eyeliner. I used Fluidline by MAC with an angle brush on the upper lashline in the lashes, and on the lower lashline, in between the white pencil and Rich Ground fluid line. I save the black for last so it won’t smear. This will give you a guidline for the lashes that are to follow.
6. Then apply the top lashes first with black glue. Next apply the bottom lashes underneath the white eyeliner. The bottom lashes will NOT be touching the real lashes.
7. Over Extended Eyebrows. I use an eyebrow pencil first, usualy in taupe, then I go over the pencil with an angled brush and an appropriate eyeshadow. This will look different for every eye and brow shape. Use your judgement with these pictures as a guide line. You can do the brows earlier on in the makeover to help give you a guidline.
Model: Calli Wagner with JetSetModels.com / Photographer: AdamJung.com
Makeup: JessicaHoffman.net / Hair: Alan V. from BlancSalon.com